Chiang Mai

We spent the first five days of our Thailand vacation in Chiang Mai, a great small city in northern Thailand. Chiang Mai was built as a walled city in 1296, and the center of the city is still surrounded by a wall and moat. Historically, Chiang Mai was an important stop on the trade route from southern China to the Burmese port of Moulmein, and today it boasts one of Asia's largest outdoor markets.

I think Nathan and I have both come to the conclusion that we're small city people, and Chiang Mai had great restaurants and terrific things to do while still being very manageable in terms of traffic, travel time, etc. There's a US consulate in Chiang Mai, and I had a chance to meet the Consul General (ie head) at a conference in September. Bea Camp, I want your job someday! (Unfortunately, so do lots of other foreign service officers!)

Wat Prathat Doi Suthep

On of the north's most sacred temples, this wat was established in the 14th century on a mountain about 16km outside of Chiang Mai. According to legend, the temple site was chosen by an elephant carrying a holy relic. Originally the relic was to be enshrined elsewhere, but it split in two. The second piece was placed on the back of an elephant which proceeded to climb Doi Suthep mountain, stopping twice. After three days the elephant finally reached a level piece of ground, circled three times, knelt down and then died. A hole was dug at the site for the relic, which was then covered with a chedi (stupa) over seven meters in height.




Wat Phra Singh

There are 300 temples in Chiang Mai--almost as many as in far bigger Bangkok. One of the most impressive of the temples within the old city is Wat Phra Singh, which dates from the 14th century and is a perfect example of the northern Thai Lanna style of architecture.


Chiang Mai Zoo

Well, you can only spend so much time looking at temples, particularly when you're travelling with two kids under three. So we deviated from the standard tourist route and went to the Chiang Mai zoo. The zoo itself was great, but on a Monday it was virtually empty and the bus system ran so rarely as to be an impractical way to get around. So we pushed/backpacked the kids throughout the hilly and step-filled zoo in the 90 degree heat. It was frustrating for us (particularly when we got lost at the end and just wanted to get out!) and we saw less than we would have otherwise. Still, it was a fun morning and the kids loved seeing all the animals, especially the pandas.


Many kids give up their morning nap at around 12 months, and just nap in the afternoon. We were really hoping that Ben would be able to do this on our vacation, because it would make getting around a bit easier to schedule. The zoo trip was our first of many indications that Ben just wasn't ready to give up his morning beauty sleep.


River Cruise and Orchard Visit

One morning we took a lovely short cruise down the Mae Nam Ping river. It was a relaxing way to get a new look at the Chiang Mai area and to give our aching muscles a rest at the same time. About 45 minutes outside the city, we stopped at an orchard for a tour and a snack. Our city kids loved seeing how food is grown and then chowing down on some delicious fruit and juice.



Around Town

Some of the highlights of our time in Chiang Mai were the small things that don't make it on to postcards. In one day, Nathan managed to both enjoy a coffee and a book at Starbucks and eat Haagen Dazs. I got two massages in one day--a half hour foot/leg massage in a public park that only cost $1, and my first Thai massage, complete with legs bending at improbable angles and the masseuse walking on my back. The kids got to go swimming several times and to play at an outdoor playground. And we got lots of naps. For Ellie, just taking a tuk tuk to and from our destinations was an adventure.

While we enjoyed some great Thai food, what really had Nathan and I head over heels was amazing middle eastern food at Jerusalem Falafel. After all, there are lots of places in Phnom Penh that have good Thai food, but where can we get homemade pita, hummus, or baba ganoush? I'm ready to declare their falafel the best I've ever had, and Ben loved the hummus...and covered himself in it. Maybe it's good for the skin?

Well, there's the run down on Chiang Mai. If you've made it this far, you must either be family or have some big project you're trying really hard to avoid. Anyone willing to admit to income tax procrastination? Either way, it's nice to have you with us. We'll have pics of Bangkok up when we get a chance.